Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts

Nicaragua by the Caribbean, Corn Island



The most exciting thing that happened to me during this part of the trip, was the flight! Managua to Corn Island, with a short stop in Bluefields pickin' up some other dudes! The airplane was just creepy, one those you would never step on, and I almost passed out when I realized that the window next to pilot was just a normal window...just like the one you use to find on some old cars. But the best was still to come!!! Once we took off, the engines did roll at full power for about 30 minutes, trying to reach the right altitude...and all of a sudden...the rpm dropped down sooo quickly that I thought we had serious engines problems. My face turned purple, staring at everyone's face trying to find some comprehensive looks. Don't worry...we made it to the altitude, my neighbor said. Ohhh well!!! Five minutes later we started to go down again, with the structure shacking badly as we were approaching to the next airport.
And again...from Bluefield to Corn island! I was high in the sky...but I had never been so close to hell!!!
I spent a full week on the island, staying over this gorgeous "resort" called Caffè del Mar run by a German guy and his wife (a local). The location was right on the beach, one those you usually see on magazines, and my hammock was under a metal roof with all the others.
My typical day?
Wake up early in the morning (it was quite hot under that hut!!!) and enjoy the quietness of the beaches. No tourism, no crowds, no nothing. Just me and the unspoiled nature. Swimming was the biggest part of the deal, and every time I reached an isolated spot, I would get naked in the water and enjoyed the sense of freedom that condition gives, in a total state of silence and with those bright colors all over you.
This is not a place to go if you're looking for clubs or night life in general. This is a place where you can be with yourself if you want, where you can play with little local kids till you're so tired you can barely walk to your hammock, where you can look at the fishermen coming back from a tough day and buy your fish right on the beach, where coconuts are hanging on the trees calling you to be picked up and drunk. This is where the time has stopped!

Granada, Nicaragua 2005




There's no way any other place can take over Granada in my "Best places ever visited" list. It was love at first sight, starting from the amazing, stunning, unreachable, unforgettable and breathtaking "Bearded Monkey".
By those days it was totally the place to stay in Granada; from the mood you could feel at any time of the day, to dinner time when people from all over the town use to start filling the internal patio to taste the wonderful local dishes, pleased by a delicious soundtrack on the background.
It was just a matter of time, and I discovered the beauties the architecture could offer just few steps outside the building. Ancient churches in their decadent look would catch your attention at a glance; visiting the streets where the market takes place is the experience of your life...try to be there right after sunrise, and the light will do the rest!!!
The main square is where you get the real essence of the spanish colonization in town. The cathedral, perfectly restored, is surrounded by a sea of other amazing examples of what the past did offer to the town. Bright colors, smooth curves, fancy ornaments...just a party for your soul and eyes!
Don't be afraid to take walk in the little alleys though!!! Compared to other places in Central America, Granada is relatively safe place...especially during the day! As you get closer to the lake (don't forget to visit "Las isletas"), the town gets more real, loosing that touristic look the very downtown has. I'd rather be a bit more careful at night, but as long as you don't look too much as a gringo (people down there hate Americans pretty much due to the history of the country) you won't have any problem enjoying the Latin atmosphere.
The food in town is quite good everywhere, but as in any place on earth, the more you stick around the main square the more the quality drops down. For a cozy night, surrounded by young people and with a good music in the background (beers are cheep pretty much everywhere), join the "Hospedaje Central" where you can also get a bed to sleep for very little money in a clean environment (even if The Bearded Monkey is waaaay better).
And once you're tired of the city, just few minutes away by bus (actually the bus drops you on the main road, then you have to hitch hike...but it's safe) there's another place I'll never forget:
"La Laguna de Apoyo".
In the middle of nowhere, in this volcanic pot, you have the chance to experience the refreshing joy of the laguna's turquoise waters; and if your clever (or lucky) enough to go there during the week end you'll be able to experience how the locals spend their time with their family and friends delighted by some mariachi live music while eating some good food served by the shores in one of those typical restaurants.
And remember...don't be shy!!! There's sooo much out there to discover! Just ask the locals...they're just lovely!

Ometepe, Nicaragua 2005



It all started with the cops getting on the bus I was traveling on, and passing by everyone else sitting on the damned bus, and pointing right at me. The sun was going down, and the frontier was just there! Few minutes ahead.
I had to get off the vehicle, go trough all the bullshit they were giving me, and by the time it was all dark, I was in the middle of nowhere, with two cops, trying to get me on a cab (they called) to take me to some cabins where to spend the night.
The room was soo empty of everything! The cockroaches in the shower didn't really help, but outside it was just quite; crickets singing like crazy (how can you complain for them to make their wonderful noise!!!???), fireflies filling the darkness...for 10 dollars I wouldn't matter!!!
Wake up!!! Wake up!!!
The border is just there. Only the day after I realized how those cops were actually saving my ass! Misunderstanding their attitude, the just wanted me to spend the night in a safe place, instead of facing that mass of people. What I faced that morning...I can't even remember very well, but after going trough the bureaucracy, I found my self on a yellow school bus taking me to San Jorge. The bus was not so crowded (it was gonna get soon), but there were people getting on and off the bus to sell you any sort of thing. From fresh made juices to batteries.
Once in San Jorge, I had another problem. I had no money to take the ferry to Ometepe!!!With one big backpack in the back, and a "smaller" one in the front (sooo classic!) I jumped on a bicycle rickshaw that took me to a man a man sitting on the street handling fat quantities of money...at least they looked a lot!
Done with that I headed again to the harbor, where a luxury boat was waiting for me to take me to the cones of the volcanoes Maderas and Conception.
I stayed over the Hacienda Merida, a delicious place at the bottom of the Maderas, in a peaceful spot where you could also see the other volcano in case you'd take a canoe to take a tour on your own!
And off course watch one of the most amazing sunsets I've ever seen...magical!
I spent an unforgettable week over this place, doing any sort of activity, from climbing a volcano, to taking trips with my canoe around the lake, or just have a walk around getting in touch with locals. But the best part was always the end of the day, at sunset, when you use to meet again with your mates and, after taking a refreshing bath in the lake at sunset, share everybody's experience sitting around a nice table filled with fresh homemade food.